original page
Jan. 10. 2002
A couple of years ago, I was standing outside a restaurant on a sunny day
in southern California showing Joanna Beck, wife of Dr. Bob Beck, just how
simple it was to disperse clouds using The Visual Ray
(http://educate-yourself.org/visualray21may0.html), a technique I
learned from reading Trevor James Constable's book, The Cosmic Pulse of
Life. After demonstrating the technique to her on a couple of smaller
clouds, we worked together on evaporating a particular large cumulus cloud and
noticed how the blueness of the sky was slightly darker where the large cloud
had existed only a few minutes earlier, a result of intensified orgone energy
accumulating in that area. Almost simultaneously, we wondered aloud whether a
group of people could use this technique to break up chemtrails! I tried it a
number of times on my own, but I couldn't get chemtrail 'clouds' to break up
and disperse the same way normal clouds would and I wondered silently whether
a Cloudbuster, a simple invention of Wilhelm Reich.to direct orgone
energy in the atmosphere, could tackle the job.
Over the course of 35 years, Trevor Constable had modified Reich's original
long pipe arrayed Cloudbuster down to a much smaller, compact, and simpler
design that could 'make' or 'break' weather in any direction he chose: He
could make rain or stop it; he could relieve drought and break up smog or
create a dry spell and intensify smog conditions. It all depended on how you
manipulated the atmospheric ether in a given area. Trevor discovered that it
all depends on how you apply his modified Cloudbuster design to direct the
flow of etheric energy. If you bottle up the etheric flow, or
stymie its normal expansive and contractile pulse, you will get drought
(and smog). If you release the etheric flow after being 'bottled up' or stuck
during a dry spell, you will get torrential rains. There is likely no civilian
on the face of this earth who has accumulated more expertise about weather
engineering than Trevor James Constable
Don Croft
However, the hero of this article is
Don Croft (zapper16@earthlink.net), a man who was led to Reich's work
with orgone energy and Cloudbusters by another route entirely. Someone had
directed Don to a web site
(http://www.orgone.net) that discussed Reich's observations about orgone
energy and how you could utilize Reich's inventions of the Orgone Accumulator
(abbreviated "oracs") involving a much smaller design than the conventional
oracs built by Reich using metal shavings, magnets, crystals, and epoxy or
polyester resin. Don started to make cone shaped oracs using the above
mentioned materials (and plastic funnels for the mold) and called them "Holy
Hand Grenades" (HHG's)
(http://educate-yourself.org/HHGconstruction10jan02.html). He also
incorporated these ideas into his "terminator" zappers (contact me if
interested: Editor@educate-yourself.org) .
"Holy Hand Grenades" Batman!
These things had the
ability to focus life positive energy and break up areas of noxious energies
or DOR, a word coined by Reich which means Deadly Orgone Energy. Don calls
them orgone generators since they neutralize DOR and seem to only
generate positive, life affirming energies. Don began planting these HHG's in
outdoor locations near nuclear power plants and other (classified ) areas of
noxious, life depleting energies and started to have a definite effect on
improving the energy fields radiating from these zones. Since he already was
thinking about using the cloudbuster to try and break up chemtrails, Don took
it a step further and combined a large version of his HHG with a cloudbuster
utilizing rigid copper pipes and a 2 gallon plastic bucket to hold the whole
enchilada together. This modification of Reich's Cloudbuster is a unique and
original design idea of Don's and produces some rather special effects.
He set up his combo orac/cloudbuster outside on a chemtrail overcast day
with the pipes pointing straight up and sure enough, after a while, the
chemtrails started to break up revealing blue sky above. The longer he left
the orac/CB in place, the clearer the sky got , eventually covering an
area out to 90 miles. He later improved the orac design and got the coverage
to extend out to 120 miles.
Don had contacted me by E mail last year and was sending me reports of his
success with the orac/CB both in this country and abroad. He had sent the
instructions to an African man named Gert Botha living in Namibia who built a
modified version of the device using locally scavenged materials (read "Africa's
First Cloudsbuster"
{http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html}and then see Gert's Report
{http://educate-yourself.org/gertbothareportoct01.html}). Initially, Gert
found that his Cloudbuster was having an effect on the incessant sand storms
causing them to constantly change direction, but eventually he found that
aiming the Cloudbuster south at an angle of 30 degrees to the horizon forced
the sandstorms to stop. After being parked in this position for two months,
his orac/CB brought on torrential rains for the first time in years in one of
the driest regions of Africa.
Psychic Dames
Don gains many of his "insights"
about his oracs and other devices through dowsing with his wife, Carol Derry,
and his daughter, Nora, who both possess psychic ability, big time. His two
psychic 'dames' also keep him one step ahead of the Bad Guys. Don is on the
road most of the time and whenever the black op types try to move in on him,
he learns about it before they do! The Bad Guys have their high tech
advantages, but it seems the Universe takes care of its own when you're trying
to do the Right Thing. In Don's case, he's been provided with exactly the sort
of 'assistance' he needs (three cheers for Carol and Nora!).
Your Weekend Project
Complete instructions to make
your own orac/CB or "ChemBuster" are included in this article. It will cost
you about $150 US dollars if you buy all of the materials new, but if you're a
scrounger, you can probably do it for the cost of the plastic resin. The
instructions were written by Don Croft with a little bit of editing by another
man who wished to remain anonymous. The pictures were mostly supplied by Don,
but Mr. Anonymous threw in one photo of his own orac/CB breaking up chemtrails
in the midwest, his neck of the woods. Anyone with modest do-it-yourself
skills can build these devices, but be aware that an orac/CloudBuster is not a
toy. It directs orgone energy, both the good type and the harmful DOR type.
If you don't educate yourself about a Cloudbusters and handle this thing
carelessly, you could experience some discomfort, but not the sort of DOR that
Reich's Cloudbuster design could accumulate. Trevor Constable told me first
hand a story about the late Robert McCullough, Reich's friend and assistant in
the Arizona desert in the 1950's. Dr Reich and Bob were running pioneering
experiments with Reich's Cloudbuster when Bob had allowed a big (functioning)
Cloudbuster to accidentally touch the side of his bare leg-which instantly
paralyzed his leg and caused him excruciating pain. It took weeks to recover
and Bob walked with a limp and had to use a cane for the rest of his life. You
need to remember to discharge an active Cloudbuster before touching the pipes.
Don recommends touching the base of the unit after touching the pipes to
discharge any DOR energy. You could also lay the unit on its side on the
ground and remove the pipes with a rubber glove. Laying the pipes on the bare
earth should discharge them of any DOR.
So here's the edited reprint of Don's papers on Chemtrail Busting and the
complete instructions for making your own "Chembuster" .
You can also review an earlier version of Don's
Cloudbuster directions
(http://educate-yourself.org/CBconstructioninfo1feb02.html) which he had sent
to me in August, 2001. It includes some interesting uses for the CB not
included in the directions given below. At the time, Don indicated that you
could get 5 double pointed quartz crystals from "David" at
davdart@texas.net for $7 including shipping, but I don't know if that
contact is still valid. Give it a try.
How to Build A Cloudbuster to Disperse Chemtrails
and Improve the Weather
By Don Croft
Definition of a contrail: A contrail occurs when a plane
travels at a high altitude (about 30,000 ft. or more) and compresses the air
into a water vapor or ice crystals through jet engines or the wing tips
pushing through the air. This trail disappears after anywhere from a few
seconds to 15 minutes, as the water vapor evaporates.
Definition of a chemtrail: The term "chemtrail" is a relatively new
word, which appeared in the last few years 
along with the appearance of chemtrails. A chemtrail is
very different from a contrail. At first a chemtrail might look a bit like a
contrail. However, instead of disappearing like a contrail does, a chemtrail
just keeps spreading out and forming a hazy cloud bank. These trails traverse
the whole sky and stay for up to around five or even eight hours. They have
been known to turn what was originally a clear blue sky into a grey haze.
(Note: As of Nov 2001 there are already several dozen cloudbusters in seven
countries, so if you see chemtrails that don't last anywhere near this long,
there may already be a cloudbuster in the area).
It is believed chemtrails are composed at least in part by an oil based
substance of unknown content that is actually being sprayed from jets on
populated areas. It has also been found that some chemtrails contain red blood
cells, aluminum, mycoplasma, viruses and other unknown biological components.
There are many reports of increased diseases, especially respiratory ailments,
in areas where there are chemtrails.
Chemtrails are often seen to be sprayed by white planes with no markings.
Sometimes you will see these planes give off no contrail at all, and
immediately after the same kind of plane in the same area will start to leave
a thick chemtrail. At other times, distinct short gaps in chemtrails have been
photographed, as though the plane ran out of chemicals and then had to start
spraying with a new supply.
For information on Chemtrails see the sites listed at http://www.carnicom.com/contrails.htm
History of the Cloudbuster
The Wilhelm
Reich cloudbuster (CB) was well known for its ability to create rain. But a
problem existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone energy that
it absorbed could in fact hurt the operator if it was not correctly "drained
off". This "draining off" of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by 1.
Connecting the cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2.
Connecting the cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the
orgone accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone energy
which in turn caused more problems for the operator. So the cloudbuster, as
good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented
By utilizing the
research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy to build
device that 
consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The
“chembuster” is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original
cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and
does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the operator. You can build
one for about $150.
Join The Battle - Now!
It is human nature to sit
on the sidelines and think that one person cannot change the things that are
happening to our country. You now have no excuse for inaction. For a few
dollars and a few hours of your time YOU can make a difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the effects
of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile diameter) from the
unit. If used with Slim Spurling’s environmental tools, and a few extra
crystals, the diameter can be increased to about 120 miles in all directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT DOWN the
multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The chembuster cannot do any damage.
It can only help and heal. Its up to you to join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details
Cloudbuster Materials
Set pipes in bottom spacer
Middle Plywood Spacer
CLOUDBUSTER DIRECTIONS
BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from
the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from
restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are
fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the
finished cloudbuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at one
end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the
bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections
of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the
12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this
way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz crystal,
about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape)
then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the
same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop'
glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin
from leaking into the cap during casting. (Note) Another option is
to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this
smoothes the CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies.
However, citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at
eliminating chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling
yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum
fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight
considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings
from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go
through a ½” screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability! .
PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for
the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2”
radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4”
auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap.
Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket.
Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove
it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just used to
get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in this
with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece
will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the
pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the
pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid.
Not to scale Widest circle is 9 1/8”
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats) but epoxy
also works, as does envirotech resin from www.eti-usa.com (this sets up very
quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). (If you are going to construct
many of these units, try to purchase your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the
internet, possibly from a surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. Home
depot gets $24 per gallon for resin )
On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom
of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and
flat. CAUTION: Resin fumes are flammable; use in a warm, but
well ventilated area.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal
particles.
Put the base Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it
just touches the surface and doesn't sink in much. Pour a half gallon of
catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in
the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the
same ratio as before. Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down
to the bottom of the bucket with the resin squishing over the top.
Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly
within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the pipes
and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the resin has hardened,
remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used during
construction, as I mentioned.
You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if
you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished
(wait until it hardens before you move it. You will actually use about
one gallon of metal shavings and 1 ½ gal. Of resin.
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12" long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the base.
Buy six coupler joints which allow a pipe to come into them from both
directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the rest of the
pipe assembly from three pipes, 10' long, cut in half. The finished product
leaves you with only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12" pipes for pouring the second layer of mix,
temporarily tape the top ends of the 12" pipes so no metal particles are
dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece
down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket.
Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5' pipes onto the 12" base
pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the 5’ copper pipes.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood
piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do that, the rim plywood
piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously, though not in a
hurry, so that the resin doesn't harden before you're done.
We experimented with 5' extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It
had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for
hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility
under Homestead Air Force Base by leaving the extended cloudbuster pointing at
the dead orgone field above it for a week.
We found that we don't need to point it in any particular direction in
order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it's left
standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the cloudbuster (many
miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did once
eliminate a belt of smog which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a
few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
Cloudbusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for
your cloudbuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that
point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and
dissipated trails that drift within range of the cloudbuster will also
disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to
dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the
spewing episodes.
Dr. Reich’s cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since
he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge
which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one
spot. It's similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field.
When cloudcover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for
instance, or too much rain) the cloudbuster busts it up.
It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the weather, I
think it sort of mediates between the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The
one in Namibia, Africa finally brought heavy rain to the desert there. It
happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the
cloudbuster and reported the occurrence, told me that this had simply never
happened in the Namib desert before to the best of anyone's knowledge. It's
arguably the driest region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced
or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may
experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did
recently.
Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen
mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than the last word.
SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of the
material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily. In
freezing climates, cover the top of the six pipes so water can’t freeze and
shatter the crystals. The CB appears to effect chemtrails equally well
whether it’s placed indoors or out. Up to seven crystals can be placed
in each pipe to improve performance.
CB plowing through chemtrails in the midwest
Additional Information from Ken Adachi
Concering discharge of a CB. The origanl CB as built by Reich could channel
both positive orgone and negative DOR and DOR is the problem when touching
the pipes. Don Croft's modification for all practical purposes eliminates
99% of the potential dangers of DOR , but he does report that some people
have gotten a headache by touching the pipes of an active unit (meaning it's
been set up outdoors for a few days and pointing up) without grounding the
energy by touching the base of the unit where the orac is located.
Concerning rain making. You don't have to do anything special. Simply set the unit
up and give it a few days or a couple of weeks. One technique found to work
was to pour water onto the base of the pipes (not into the pipes) and allow
it to puddle on the top of the orac (encased in resin within the bucket).
Orgone has a tremendous affinity for water and the presence of water on the
orac seems to stimulate the production of rain clouds.
Below is Don Croft's chat list for the chembuster CB, HHgs info, etc. Very
active site with many fascinating postings. You can read all of the
previously posted messages about the success others have been having with
Don's CB ref. breaking chemtrails and producing rain, etc.. Maybe you could
post it to the Energy 2000 chat list and gain their attention faster than I.
cloudbuster newsgroup yahoo website
Anyone can read the previously posted messages. If you want to join and
contribute to the chat, you have to agree to either be in the process of
building a CB or have already built one. He doesn't want armchair
'experimenters' spouting off without hands-on experience. I can understand
that.
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