This is a copy of the book published by Nutech and reproduced here with permission, but without the excellent photographs that are published with the book.
If you wish a full copy of this book I suggest you go to the following website of
Cell location and mounting
The mounting of the cell is full of compromises,
both for the cell and the occupants of the car.
* For least vibration and tilt, the center of the car is the best location.
* For least heat accumulation, low down in the interior of the car is the best location.
* For least electro-magnetic disturbance, the boot is the best ( unless there are CD stackers,
radio gear or electric fuel pumps in the boot area ).
* For best Orgone flow, the cell should be as close as possible to the motor, and the outlet should have only a vertical path to the blind plug.
* For cell servicing, it should be in the boot or similar easy access points.
* To keep human interaction to the minimum, the rear bumper bar is the best location.
* To keep interaction with other cars to a minimum, the center of the car is the best location.
* To keep the outlet pipe to a minimum length, right next to the block is the best position.
* To minimise interference with the car electronics,
a roof location is best.
As you can see, even in the brief list above, there
is no one location that is ideal. The very best compromise is
placing the cell in the foot-well on the passenger side, and having
a hole through the bulkhead with a short tube run to the blind
plug on the block. If you choose this position, please note:
* This may be dangerous in an accident and thus illegal, and you must obtain the approval from
the related instrumentalities.
* The hole through the bulkhead must be gas-tight as there is a danger of lethal gasses entering
the occupant area. Again, the related permits are mandatory.
* The location of the cell may interfere with any car computer that is located in this area.
* The passenger may interact with the cell.
* It will reduce your resale values due to the holes.
* Your insurance company will have to be notified with a logical explanation for your
The second, less frowned upon location, is in a cold area of the engine compartment. This is just about impossible in a compact car, unless you have an older 6 or 8 cylinder model.
That is why I have said it is better to choose a
car suited to run on a Joe cell, rather that trying to run your
modern 4 cylinder front wheel drive compact from it. Your chances
of a successful first-up conversion of a fuel injected, variable
cam timing, turbo, computer controlled and twin overhead cam compact
4 cylinder car is minimal.
The mounting of the cell, once the position is chosen
is not difficult. The simplest and most permanent method is to
use the half inch negative bolt as one of the fixtures for the
cell. As this bolt is the negative connection, it can be directly
bolted through the floor or via a convenient piece of metal plate
to a suitable point in the engine compartment. The cell itself
should be surrounded by an insulating material similar to a computer
mouse mat or diving suit material. Around this you would have
two hose clips to hold the body of the cell against some rigid
part of the car. The aim is to stop the cell developing its own
vibration that is additional to the vibration generated by the
engine and the road conditions. All parts of the cell must
be well clear of any metal parts at all times as the cell
body has a positive potential on it. If you accidentally touch
a charged cell body to any metal parts of the car, you will probably
have to recharge the cell, and you know what a pain that can be.
To summarise the above, the cell must be firmly fixed
in the best possible location and protected from any accidental
contact with any metal parts of the car. Any car modifications
must have the approval of the relevant government bodies.
NOTE. I am presuming
that you have a reasonably modern car that has the negative end
of the car battery connected to the bodywork, ie. a negative earth
system. If you have an older positive system car, then to the
best of my knowledge, you will have problems, and I suggest that
you do not attempt a conversion of a positive earth system car.
As most of these have gone to car heaven, there should not be
too many around. A good indicator is that the car runs a generator
instead of an alternator, but this rule only applies most
of the time, and there are exceptions.
Cell electrical connections
The above section has mentioned that we are dealing
with negative earth cars. This means that the negative end of
the battery is connected to all the metal work of the car. As
the inner one inch cylinder and the included bolt are the negative
end of the cell, this bolt may be connected to any substantial
metal part of the car. Make sure that you remove any paint or
sound-deadening material from the hole that you have drilled for
the half inch bolt, and use a star washer on both sides of the
hole in the metal work to guarantee a long lasting low resistance
All parts of the cell and engine tube are at a positive
potential. The best point to connect our positive is at the far
end of the engine tube. I connect my positive lead under the four
inch long section of neoprene hose ( between the aluminium tube
and the hose ), and secure the cell end ONLY of
the rubber tube with a stainless steel worm drive clip. This creates
a good electrical connection between the lead and the cell-to-engine
tube. This positive lead should go via a five amp fuse in series
to the " ignition on " power distribution. What this
means is that there is only power to the cell when the ignition
key is in the normal car running position. As the cell has been
made to only pass one Amp, the resultant power consumption of
the cell with the car running will be 12 Watts. This is a fairly
conservative cell dissipation, but will eventually heat up the
cell on a long trip and a hot day. Please read Regulation
When the car is not in use, and depending on the
leakage of the cell, you may require a " trickle charge "
current to flow through the cell to maintain a minimal breeding
condition. Joe employed a 1.5 Volt battery to accomplish this
in his early days. I would suggest a current flow of 0.25 Amps
to accomplish this. This is a power dissipation of 3 Watts. If
you connect a resistor of about 3 Ohms in series with you positive
lead, you will achieve the above. This value will vary from cell
to cell and you will have to select on test the actual resistor
to be used. In all cases a 4 or 5 Watt wire wound resistor of
the appropriate resistance value will be adequate. Make sure that
this resistor is suitably mounted as it will get warm and you
don't want to start a fire.
As you can see from the above, we already have two
values of current flow ( a running value and a trickle charge
). The simplest way to achieve this would be a changeover switch
that introduces a series resistor when the car is not running.
But, as most people will forget to operate this switch every time
they turn the engine off, an automatic system is far superior
and probably essential. This is easily achieved with a relay connected
to the " ignition on " distribution. With this method,
when the car ignition is off, the relay is released and the appropriate
resistor is in series with the positive lead and the cell. The
cell now only has the trickle charge current flowing through it.
When the ignition is in the run position, the relay now operates,
and the resistor is shorted out by the relay contacts. The cell
now has the full 1 Amp flowing through it. Obviously, when the
ignition is turned off, the cell reverts back to the keep alive
During the early experimental and development stages,
I would recommend a variable 5 Ohm, 5 Watt, wire wound potentiometer
and a series 0-5 Amp ammeter. With this system you will be able
to optimise you running and trickle charge currents and finally
choose the optimum resistors for both modes. Also, you will be
able to find exactly how much current you need for optimum cell
output to suit the climatic and driving conditions. The reason
is, that as the cell heats up it draws more current. Yes, you
will have to experiment!
Previously, I have mentioned that I use 1 inch (
24 mm. ) outside diameter aluminium tube. The inside diameter
of the tube is ¾ " , so the wall thickness is 1/8 ".
I am not telling you that this is the only diameter or material
that works. It is the material and diameter that others, including
myself have standardised on to allow for ease of interchangeability
for fault finding and experimentation. The length of this tube
should be as short as possible without using sharp bends. All
bends in the tube must have smooth and progressive direction changes
with no distortions. The tube should be covered with insulation
similar to what is used on hot water pipes and car roof racks.
Reduce any horizontal runs of the tube to a minimum. Similarly,
do not use any U-bends that forces the Orgone to change directions
from an upward to a downward run. A good example of how not to
mount the cell is seen on the amigo web site ( http://homepages.tig.com.au/~amigo_s/joe.htm
). In the photographs, this cell is mounted above the car with
a severe downhill run to the motor. Although aluminium is a good
barrier for Orgone, the energy is still leaking out the tube.
As you now know, Orgone has a upward vertical tendency and therefore
the best position for the Joe cell is as low as possible, so the
Orgone can flow upwards to the blind plug and thus the motor.
In most engine installations, you will need some " downward
run " of the tube. It will still work, but keep any of these
runs to a minimum. The inside edges of the cell end of the aluminium
tube must have a radius that reduces gradually from 20 mm. inside
diameter to the outside 24 mm. diameter of the tube. So if we
are looking up the inside of the cone towards the compression
fitting and the aluminium tube, there should be no sudden change
of diameter to upset the flow of the Orgone. This area, where
we are forcing the Orgone to create a beam that goes down the
aluminium tube, is critical. Keep all inside surfaces polished
and do not have any obstructions whatsoever in the flow path.
The engine end of the tube has a section of about 4 inches of neoprene rubber hose pushed over the aluminium tube and the blind plug. If you have 1 inch length of tube on the blind plug and 1 inch length of tube over the aluminium tube, you end up with a non metallic gap length of 2 inches. This gap is vital as the motor is at negative potential and the aluminium tube is at positive potential. We must never let any portion of the cell or tube touch any part of the car or motor. That is why I have suggested that you should insulate your cell and tube.
I have mentioned previously that our positive lead is under the 4 inch rubber sleeve and is held secure to the aluminium tube by means of a worm drive clip. The blind plug end of the 4 inch tube must not have any form of clip on it! This end of the rubber sleeve performs the function of a one way valve for the Joe cell. When you push the rubber sleeve over the blind plug, please make sure that you cover the inside of the sleeve and the outside of the blind plug with Vaseline ( Petroleum jelly ).The following will now occur. As a result of electrolysis in the cell, every now and then, the excess cell pressure will vent to the atmosphere via the loose coupling between the rubber sleeve and the blind plug. But when the pressure drops, air will not be sucked back into the cell. I have found that this valve enhances the duration of the breeding process. I repeat, the blind plug end of the neoprene 4 inch sleeve must be free to allow the release of excessive pressure build-up. If you keep your cell electrolysis to 1 Amp or less, this venting is minimal. All the same, the gasses are explosive, so take the appropriate safeguards. Imagine what would happen if the cell could not vent excessive pressure. The pressure in the cell will keep building up until the weakest point lets go. This, in all probability, would be the rubber sleeve. If you were super stupid and really clamped and glued the hose down at each end, the tube will sustain over 100 psi before letting go. This would release a high pressure stream of HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE GASSES! This could be ignited by the distributor points, cigarettes, static electricity, exhaust system, etc. PEOPLE COULD BE KILLED OR SERIOUSLY INJURED!!! Please, if you are not competent, don't do it, or seek a professional. Read my disclaimer!
The optimum and smart solution, is to use a 1 psi
blow-off-valve that vents the waste gas into the air intake after
the air cleaner. The waste gas will now be drawn into the motor
and the air cleaner will act as a flame arrester. That is the
smart, safe and logical solution. I use a low pressure electrical
switch/pressure assembly as used on washing machines to monitor
the quantity of water in the wash bowl. I set this switch to operate
at 2 psi. When the pressure switch operates, it electrically operates
an air solenoid that allows the excess pressure from the cell
to be vented into the intake manifold between the air cleaner
The only other danger is that you did not follow
my instructions, or you have decided that you know best, or more
is better, and you boosted up the electrolysis action. A such,
you will have excessive venting, and sooner or later, you and
your experiment will part, suddenly and violently. Please, please,
put you brain into gear before playing around with explosive mixtures,
or better still, leave it to professionals
Blind plug location
First and foremost, the 1 inch long section of the
blind plug that the neoprene tube slips on, must have the
same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the neoprene tube.
Therefore, if you are using 24 mm. outside diameter tubing and
the inside diameter of the tube is 20 mm., then the outside diameter
of the blind plug must be also 24 mm. The neoprene sleeve ( 24
mm. inside diameter ) must not be a force fit onto the blind plug.
Do not economise or compromise this fit. Your life and the life
of others may be on the line! The sleeve must be an easy push
fit over the blind plug. The blind plug should be made out of
aluminium and the final shape will be determined on the mounting
location on the motor. The aim is to introduce the Orgone "
beam " of energy as centrally as possible on the motor and
as close as possible to the water that is circulated around the
cylinders. There have been many location employed, and they all
work to a degree, ie. a blind plug on the intake manifold, a blind
plug on the back of the head, a blind plug on the block, etc.
My suggestion for 4 and 6 cylinder motors is to place the blind
plug on the block near the head gasket line and as central as
possible ( midway between the cylinders ). The V8 cylinder motor
design is ideal as the blind pug can be centrally located on the
water heated part of the intake manifold. Be careful with older
4 and 6 cylinder motors as one side may have the push rods, tappets
and cam shaft located inside the block. As such, you will not
be placing your blind plug against the water jacket. Sometimes
you may be able to remove the Welsh plug from the optimum location
and machine one end of the blind plug to fit this circular opening.
Make sure that you do a professional job of this, as a plug that
falls out means a loss of all water and probably the motor! Some
individuals claim that they have placed the blind plug on the
carburettor or even the air cleaner. I have my doubts, but as
I have not verified these claims, they may be adequate, but in
my view far from optimised. There is a story of a professor that
made a Joe cell as a replacement for the air cleaner and it worked
for a while until it collapsed due to the stainless steel being
too thin. Again, I cannot verify this story, but it would be an
ideal method of eliminating the engine pipe and blind plug entirely.
Just some more ideas for the fertile brains that may be reading
I suggest that you secure your blind plug via two
Allen bolts and suitable tapped holes on your chosen location.
Make sure that the mounting surface of the blind plug matches
the contour of the block or head or manifold at the chosen fixing
The blind plug must be mounted on the opposite side
of the exhaust system on cross-flow-head motors. This is another
reason why the V8 motor or a horizontally opposed motor is so
superior in its conversion to Orgone energy. We want to stay as
far away from the hot and exit side of the motor as possible.
If you have a siamesed exhaust and intake manifold motor, you
are really making it difficult for yourself. Unless you know exactly
what you are doing and have performed a previous conversion to
give you faith in yourself, I honestly think that you will not
have any success.
You can again see from the above why Joe's Rover
started first up on the cell, yet other motors took weeks to condition
before any results were achieved.
Volumes have been written about this topic by arm
chair scientist who try to explain their pet theories on implosion,
explosion, both implosion and explosion, or any other pet combination
you may care to think of, and therefore have to shift the timing
anywhere in the 720 degree engine cycle to make the motor run
on their theoretical mind projections.
I will again repeat, forget the theories and JUST DO IT! It is really simple. I will again tell you how I do it. Preferably have a car that has an electrical fuel pump and a switch that you can turn the pump off with. If you have a mechanical pump, fit some type of adjustable clamp on the neoprene line that goes from the tank to the fuel pump input. Or you may want to suck the fuel into the fuel pump from a 5 litre metal petrol container.
NOTE, this method is dangerous as you are working with exposed petrol.
Whatever system you adopt, all you are trying to do is to control the flow of petrol to the motor.
Next, loosen the clamp that holds the distributor, but do not as yet shift the distributor body.
* Start the car on petrol and let it warm up. Make sure that your Joe cell is electrolysing.
* Let the engine warm up and make sure that it is hot enough so that the choke has gone to the
normal running position
* Remove the fuel flow to the engine by your chosen method.
* Within a short period of time the car will start to run erratically.
* Rotate the distributor to advance the spark plug firing until you get the best possible idle
* Keep doing this with progressively smaller and smaller to and fro rotations of the distributor body over the next few minutes. The last adjustment will be very precise as the engine will falter either side of the optimum adjustment.
* You will find that the distributor will roughly
end up at between 35 and 40 degrees before top dead center (
BTDC ), which converts to 70 to 80 degrees advance on the crankshaft.
If your cell has taken over, your engine will keep
running. If the cell has not taken over, the engine will stop
as it will run out of fuel and that is it. Go to the fault finding
section. If the cell has taken over, tighten the distributor at
its new location. When the excitement wears off and if you are
still sober, take the car to a garage with a wheel dynamometer
and optimise the engine timing for maximum power Do not let the
mechanic anywhere near your exhaust system with a gas analyser,
as there will be no reading on his gas analyser and you will really
have to do some fancy explaining.
Standard ignition timing
I would now like to clarify a few points on ignition
timing for non-mechanical individuals.
* In all spark ignition engines, it is necessary to arrange for the spark to occur a little before the piston has reached the upper limit of its travel of the compression stroke. It is usual to express this ignition advance requirement in terms of degrees of crank angle before top dead center. ( BTDC ).
The danger of this term is that it can be measured
at either the crankshaft or at the distributor. As the distributor
runs off the cam shaft and thus at half engine speed, the distributor
measurement will be exactly half the crankshaft measurement. So
when we talk of 10 degrees BTDC at the distributor, we really
mean 20 degrees BTDC at the crankshaft. This misunderstanding
has caused huge confusions for the casual non-informed reader.
For example, when Joe states that the Escort runs the best at
85 degrees of advance, what is he talking about?
As mentioned at the start of this sub-section, a
spark plug ignites once every 720 crankshaft degrees or more simply,
every two revolutions. At idle, most motors are set to fire the
spark plug at between 5 and 15 degrees BTDC at the crank shaft.
As the revolutions or the motor increase, the distributor mechanical
advance section or the car computer, advances the timing ( or
makes it fire sooner ) until we reach an advance of about 35 degrees
BTDC at the crankshaft for normal motors and normal fuels. With
100 octane aviation type fuels, this advance on racing cars can
be as great as 60 degrees BTDC.
So really, when Joe states that 85 degrees of advance
is required for an Escort motor running on a Joe cell, it is no
big deal as it is very close to a setting required for an engine
that is running a high octane, slower burning fuel. It does not
even remotely hint at implosion or the like.
To conclude, as we do not know exactly how and what
powers the motor, all academic armchair rubbish is exactly that;
rubbish. Make your cell, connect it as I recommend, time it as
I recommend, get the car running, and then start your analysis
and arm chair battles.
For the initial start up from the Joe cell, an aluminium
V8 motor will not require any modifications apart from a change
in timing as described in the previous sub-section. Other motors
will require a varying time of " conditioning " before
being finally ready to run on the Joe cell. Then you will have
to change the ignition timing as described.
As the Orgone energy is primarily attracted to the
water jacket around the motor, most of the energy will be "
stored " in a latent state in this area. That is not to say
that there will not be a varying density of Orgone in other sections
of the motor or in the nearby vicinity of the cell and of the
Joe does make quite a few references to what he call
a " sealed engine ", as is the case with the Rover motor
and most modern motors as well. Basically if you remove the oil
filler cap, you should notice that the idle revolutions of the
motor will change, as you have disturbed the positive crankcase
ventilation ( PCV ) path. In older motors, the blow-by gasses
that passed the rings and ended up in the crankcase were dumped
via a breather pipe directly into the atmosphere. These type of
motors were not " sealed ". As the pollution laws slowly
changed around the world, these type of blow-by products were
frowned upon and the car manufacturers had to come up with an
alternative method for their disposal. The modern solution is
to collect these blow-by products, and re-introduce them into
the inlet manifold via a PCV valve, for their subsequent mixing
with the fuel mixture and resultant combustion. If, for example,
you remove the dip stick or the oil filler cap, you have effectively
opened this system which is under atmospheric pressure, and you
thus change the idle speed, as you have introduced an air leak
on the engine side of the carburettor or fuel injection butterfly
throttle control. You have also interfered with the Orgone
density and its relationship with the air! Remember how I
have been harping on for you to keep the top on the test cell
when it is not in use? Well, the engine is just a larger more
complex test cell. We do not want to introduce our Orgone
energy to external air until we are ready! And we are
only ready, when the piston goes down the bore creating a depression
and thus causing an external flow of air to come in via the intake
If you are having trouble in getting the motor to
run on a Joe cell and have exhausted all other possible areas
of problems, please also consider the internal crankcase ventilation
system as explained. You will only have problems in this area
with a fairly old motor, or a motor that has been modified or
that has developed a fault with the PCV system. Simply try the
" remove the oil filler cap trick ".
Beyond the initial short term test running of the
motor on the Joe cell, each motor and car will develop its own
type of idiosyncrasies. As my personal list of converted cars
is very small, I have very limited guidance for you in this area.
I will mention the little that I know in this area and at least
start a list that can be added to when YOU and others
give me feedback on your own conversions that I can use for the
update of this manual. Sadly, I have found that most converted
car owners prefer to guard their knowledge and hope to keep it
secret and thus have a longer run on the free energy before the
mighty hand of bureaucracy places a ban on such work. So be it,
we are all different and they are entitled to their view. I do
sometimes wonder why I am giving thousands of hours and thousands
of dollars of my personal time and money to such people. Anyway,
on with the list of long term modifications:
* The engine runs cooler. As such, a winter
oil and antifreeze seems to be the logical fix.
* The top-end runs hot and dry. The normal
petrol motor utilises the incoming petrol/air charge to perform
considerable cooling of the intake valve and seat. Similarly a
leaded petrol engine uses the lead or its equivalent as a lubricant
for the intake valve guide, valve and seat. With modern unleaded
or gas motors this problem is taken care of with harder valves
and seats and a different type of valve guide. If you are using
an older type of motor, it may be beneficial for the long term
life of the motor to use one of the many types of upper lubrication
kits that are readily available from various auto accessory outlets.
* Instruments and sensors burn out. I do not know of a fix for this, as it is very difficult to shield
a breeding cell. Remember that as a result of reaching Orgone saturation in the water, the
excess Orgone is converted to electricity. These potential's can be quite high under favourable
conditions and will happily destroy electrical equipment. One possible fix is to place Zenner
diodes or similar voltage sensitive " trip
" circuits across voltage sensitive components to by- pass
all voltages greater than 15 Volts. It may work, I have not tried
it as yet.
* The cell interacts with the car occupants. Apart from making the cell non-leaky, I cannot
think of even a possible solution to this one.
* The cell runs hot after hours of use, eg. a taxi. The cure is to control the electrolysis current
to the minimum possible without noticing a performance change. As the cell heats up, you
have a thermal runaway effect. So as the cell gets
hotter, it flows more current, that heats it up some more, that
flows more current, etc. As previously mentioned, a variable electrolysis
control with an ampmeter would be ideal
There is no reports to hand that I know of, that
goes into the long term wear and tear of the motor running on
the cell. The highest km's that I personally know of on a cell,
is less then 10,000 km's and as such is still far too early for
any form of appraisal.
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