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You are reading this chapter because, you now have
a container of the right water and you are ready to pour it into
your test cell, or your car cell.
You will need the following:
* A multimeter with an amperage range that can read up to at least 2 Amperes.
The same multimeter or a meter that can read up to 20 Volts direct current.
The same multimeter or a meter that can read up to at least 10 Megohms resistance.
* A funnel with a built in filter or a normal funnel into which you can place a paper coffee filter.
* Your chosen electrolyte.
* A battery charger or similar that can supply about 4 Amperes at approximately 12 Volts. Most battery chargers put out much more but, at this stage, it is not critical . You may alternatively want to use a fully charged 12 Volt battery or a power supply. The aim is to have a reproducible voltage with an output current capability of about 2 Amperes.
* A pair of leads that you can clip from the power source to your cell. I would strongly suggest that you identify your leads and clips, so that you will not reverse your polarity to the cell. We want to always place the negative lead to the bottom of the centre cylinder and the positive lead to the top of the outermost cylinder.
* A working area where the cell can be left undisturbed for a period of time, in the worst case, 4 weeks. I know, I know, you are in a hurry! But unfortunately for you, Mother Nature has infinite time and she is in control of this project.
* A top, lid, or some way of sealing of the cell
from air. Now, I am not recommending an airtight seal, even a
lid loosely sitting on top of your test jar is sufficient. The
seeding and breeding process is hampered by having too great
an area of the top of the cell being exposed to air. All lids
are not the same as regards to being a obstruction to Orgone.
If the lid does not seem to be working, place a layer of aluminium
foil ( as used in kitchen stoves ) underneath the lid and use
the foil and lid as one unit.
The charging process
pH The aim is to
modify the conductivity of your water by the addition of acid,
( in this case ) so as to get a suitable and repeatable current
flow. If we used de-ionised water with a pH of 7.0, we would have
a very low current flow for our electrolysis, and would have to
add something to increase the conductivity of the water if we
wanted observable results in a short period of time. As we change
our pH either higher ( alkaline ) or lower ( acid ) away from
a pH of 7.0, our current flow and electrolysis process will increase
together with the resultant heat increase and the stripping and
plating of the metals from the cylinders.
We are trying to achieve electrolysis action with
the minimum heat generation and also the minimum metal removal
from our cylinders. Also please note as mentioned previously,
the propagation of Orgone is reasonably slow, thus there is not
much to be achieved with excessive current ( and thus electrolysis
). Slow and steady does it, just like in Nature. For the patient
experimenter or one that is using neat water, ie. water without
electrolyte, excellent results are achieved with currents as low
as 50 m/Amps.
As we are only interested in acid cells in this manual, our pH will be 7.0 or lower. You will find that to get a current flow of 1 Amp at 12 Volts, your pH will be very close to a pH of 2 to 3. The importance of the pH reading was only relevant during the choosing of the right water as per Chapter 7. In this chapter there is no further use for pH readings during the charging process.
Whilst on the topic of pH, an experimenter has found
that with the use of a very expensive digital pH meter, he is
able to tell the state of charge of the cell. This theory is
not 100% verified at the moment, but is mentioned for the sake
1. Have your cell sitting on a wooden work bench
or on a sheet of plastic type material or, as a last resort, on
a newspaper. We are trying to insulate the cell from metal paths
that may impede the seeding process.
2. Now with you meter set to read resistance, preferably
on your highest resistance scale, read the resistance from the
inner to the outer cylinder of you cell. It should be in the high
Megohm range. If not, your insulators are conductive and you did
not follow the previous cell construction recommendations. Remove
offending insulators, reassemble carefully, measure and move on.
3. If all is okay in the above step, fill the cell
via your funnel with the enclosed filter. Next, and this
is critical, fill it only level with the top of the cylinders
and no more! The effect that you want to create is a set of water
cells separated by metal cylinders. These are your alternate organic
and non-organic chambers. Of course the submerged section of you
chambers are flooded, but with this simple cell, the top will
be doing all the work .Now you may also realise why the cylinders
have to match on the top, as otherwise the meniscus formed by
the water would not work and the water would flow from compartment
to compartment. This level is only critical during the seeding
process, as we require maximum Orgone capture to seed the cell.
Naturally, with a charged cell, the water is sloshing all over
the place whilst you are driving your car. Joe did say that during
charging, the water would find its own level and then use no more.
So with long periods of electrolysis, you would find that the
above described level is where you would end up with anyway and
then the cell would start seeding. With my method, by starting
at the right level, you will not waste hours of time creating
steam, oxygen, hydrogen and chemical deposits as a result of electrolysis.
4. Turn on the power supply, and if it is adjustable,
set it to 12 Volts. Connect the positive end of your power source
to the top of the outer cylinder. Connect the negative end of
your power source to one end of your meter that is set up to read
a minimum of 2 Amperes. Connect the other end of the meter to
the bottom of the central cylinder. What we have simply done is
set up the meter to read any current flow into your cell from
the power source. At this stage, if your water is close to a pH
of 7, as previously discussed, the current flow will be zero,
or in the low m/Amp region. If you are reading Amps, you
are doing something wrong! Contrary to what " experts
" tell you, it is impossible to draw huge current from pure
water ( unless it is Perfect Science water ) . Think about it.
To draw even 1 Amp at 12 Volts, the resistance of the water would
have to be, by Ohms law, 12 Ohms! No way! You are doing something
wrong. Find the problem and then move on.
5. Presuming that you only read m/Amps, you now want
to introduce electrolyte to electrolyse your cell. The aim is
to get a standard current flow for your electrolysis. To do this,
drip a small amount of your chosen electrolyte into the cell water
whilst stirring and watching your Amp meter. Use a glass or Perspex
or wood dowel rod for the stirrer, do not use your handy paint-stirring
screw driver! Throw away you wood dowel when finished as it will
absorb chemistry. Do plenty of gentle stirring of the water as
you add the electrolyte, otherwise you will add too much electrolyte!
Stop adding electrolyte when the meter indicates 1 Amp. Your water
level may rise as a consequence of the addition of electrolyte.
Remove some water out of you cell. I use a pipette, so as not
to disturb the cell. Remove enough water to again just
expose the top of the cylinders. At this stage, disconnect your
meter and power source and have a bit of a clean up as the next
stages are observation.
The charging process is separated in three distinct
stages that I call Stage 1, 2 and 3. These stages have some obvious
differences and also some subtle ones . With experience you will
know immediately if the cell is charged, but in your early attempts
you will have to rely on my photographs and description or visit
someone with a working cell. Do not listen to armchair scientists.
One look is worth a thousand words.
For the rest of your charging process, you will be
only connecting your power source to the cell for a maximum of
5 minutes at a time. As Orgone lags electricity by about 30 seconds,
you will know the state of the cell in less than a minute.
Do not be tempted to leave the power connected to the cell for
long periods! Yes, I know that you are in a hurry and
more is better, but in this case you only generate heat, steam,
waste power and overheat the cell. You can pick the failures by
seeing their cells running non-stop for days with 20 or more amps
turning the water to steam, etching the cylinders and ending up
with a barrel full of scum. What else would you expect? After
all, electrolysis is time and current related. If you have had
the misfortune of having your cell left on for a long period with
high current, you have probably destroyed your cylinders. You
cannot polish this etching or plating out. Yes, you throw the
cell away and start again. I bet you don't do it next time!
DANGER! Do not
charge any cell that is totally sealed! The cell will explode,
with all the related consequences. Always remove the lid or unplug
the car cell before doing any charging. I repeat, an airtight
seal IS NOT REQUIRED! At no stage do I prescribe
any form of airtight container.
Stage 1. This stage is plain old electrolysis. Due
to us passing a direct current through a liquid that contains
ions, chemical changes will occur. In our case, you will see small
bubbles and a cloud of activity that is greater nearest the outside
of the inner negative cylinder. The important observation points
are that the activity is greatest nearest the central cylinder
and gets progressively less as we move outward via the different
chambers formed by the rest of the cylinders. Additionally, within
a short period of turning the power off, all activity stops, the
water becomes clear and the bubbles disappear.
Summary stage 1. Every
fool and his dog gets to this stage. The secret is not to increase
the electrolyte and thus the current and/or leaving the cell on
for days on end. Be patient, leave the cell on for no longer than
5 minutes, turn the power source off, remove the leads to the
cell, and put the top on the test cell, or partially block off
the exit of the car cell. It does not have to be airtight! Go
and do something else. It is like waiting for a tree to grow from
the seed. Do this on a daily basis for days or a week or longer
until you get to stage 2. You will find that the more " alive
" the water is , the quicker is the seeding of the cell.
I have found that the storage, age, and source of the water all
affect the seeding speed. I have also found that by changing the
structure of the water by various means eg. vortexing, shaking,
filtering, etc., you can greatly enhance the water quality to
make it more " alive ".
Stage 2. You will now notice on your initial powering up of the cell, that the bubbles are getting larger and the white cloud of tiny bubbles in the water are much smaller or more transparent. Also in stage 1, you had the action occurring mainly in the proximity of the central cylinder. Now the bubbles form in a regular fashion irrespective of location in the cell. More importantly, on turning the power off from the cell, the bubbles do not go away immediately but stay there for minutes rather than seconds as in stage 1. Also, the top of the water assumes a glazed look and the meniscus is higher due to a change in the surface tension of the water. At this stage you may have some brownish material amongst your bubbles. Don't panic. It is only the impurities being removed from the cell. I find that if I wipe the top surface of the water with a paper towel, the bubbles and the deposit will adhere to the paper and can easily be removed. Top up the cell, if required, after the above cleaning, so that again, only the top edge of the cylinders are just showing.
Note. All topping
up of the cell at any stage is done with plain juvenile water
only. No more electrolyte is added! In cleaning the top of the
cell as described, it has been observed that some people react
unfavourably with the cell. If so, keep that person away, or if
it is you, try changing you hand ie. use your right instead of
your left or vice verse. If the presence of your hand seems to
collapse the surface bubbles, I would suggest you have a friend
do the work for you.
Summary stage 2. Very similar to stage 1, but now we have a more even bubble distribution and an increase of surface tension and a longer presence of the bubbles when the power is turned off. If you look in the bottom of your glass test cell, you will have no scum and the water will be crystal clear.
At this stage the Orgone force has seeded the cell,
but as yet, is not breeding. With the right cell, water and operator,
it is possible to go straight to stage 2 on the first turn on
of your new cell. I have this occurring every time with modified
3. Not many people get to this stage, or what is worse, get here incorrectly. If you get here following the above steps, your water is still crystal clear with no deposits in the sump. If you get here by brute force, you will have stripped appreciable amounts of material from the cylinders and this material will now deposit on the insulators and hang around as a colloid and finally form in the sump as a deposit. The low resistance insulators and the metallic colloid will create a more leaky cell that will cause endless mysterious car stoppages or refusal of the car to start etc. Right, the miracle of Nature is now breeding in your cell. Upon turning your power on to the cell, within 30 seconds copious beautiful white bubbles will rise from all the surface area of the cell. Before these bubbles cover the water surface, you will notice a slowly rotating and pulsing front in all cylinders, that is synchronised and has a regular rhythm of about 2 pulses per second and a clockwise rotation speed of about 1 revolution every 2 seconds. These effects are very hard to observe for a first time viewer that does not know what to look for. I find it easier to watch these effects with the aid of a fluorescent light, as the 100 cycles per second pulsations of the light " strobe " the water surface and help the observation.
The bubbles may overflow the container and show great
surface tension. But one of the definite proofs that the cell
is breeding is that, on turning the power source off and coming
back the next day, most of the bubbles will still be on top of
the water as opposed to stage 1 or stage 2 where they disappeared
in minutes. Please have a look at my photo sequence.
Summary stage 3. There
is no way that you can mistake this stage once you have seen it.
Some lucky people can feel the living energy and can react with
it, Reich's " Y factor ". For the rest of you normal
people, the signs are radically different. The bubbles are larger
and pure white, the surface tension is greater, the bubbles are
pulsating and most importantly the surface tension remains days
after the power has been removed.
Additional note for
the desperate electronically inclined individual. Please note.
I do not recommend any additional tests or measurements, your
eyes and brains should suffice, but if you are in trouble, you
may measure the voltage across the cell after it has been left
standing with the power off for at least 24 hours. A live cell
will have a residual voltage, or more correctly, a self generated
voltage of around 1 Volt. A stage 1 cell measured under similar
conditions will read .1 to .2 of a Volt. Remember, that unless
you know what you are doing, these voltage measurements can be
very misleading due to probe materials and battery effects that
can easily mask your true measurement. As the cell reaches the
maximum density of Orgone that it can hold, the result of the
breeding process is the conversion of this excess Orgone into
the formation of electricity. As such, electrical measurement
with the correct instruments is a very valuable method in the
verification of the efficiency of the cell. If you are conversant
with Reich's work, you may care to make an Orgone meter and thus
remove all guesswork. This meter is fully described on a few web
site as mentioned in my bibliography.
Final comments on charging the cell
I do not recommend any form of circus type of bubble
exploding, ear pulling showmanship. As noted elsewhere, noise
and vibration are Orgone-negative. Therefore, in a negative Orgone
cell like the ones I make, these explosions applied during the
delicate seeding period will kill your cell! Apart from a dead
cell, the chance of fire igniting other gasses in the workshop
and injuries to the ears etc. makes this childish exercise highly
unnecessary. I must admit that I too fell for the " go on,
ignite it! " feeling. I had a cell that had been at stage
3 for 7 months. It was my favourite test cell. My hands and matches
fought my brain and they won. There was a huge " ear-pulling,
implosion/ explosion ", and yes, I killed the cell. It went
back to stage 2 for 4 days. I will not do it again, just showing
you that I am also human. On the plus side, my resident garage
brush tail possum has not returned!
Special stage 3 water,
( referred to in chapter 11. )
As all water we are using so far has been electrolysed, this water is not suitable for use in non-stainless steel or glass containers due to reaction with the container and the resultant corrosion, but if you have to, or want to, you can use juvenile water with no electrolysers added and still charge it to stage 3. As the ion count is much lower, the water is not as conductive, ie. you cannot get as much current flow with 12 Volts as you would if you electrolysed the water. However, if you obtain a power supply of approximately 60 to 100 Volts at about 1 Amp, you will be able to charge " plain old ordinary water ".
The down side is the additional waiting, in some
cases, over 3 weeks, and the cost of the fairly expensive power
supply. The advantage as mentioned in chapter 11, is that
you will be able to pour it into the radiator of a car with no
increase in corrosion as compared to water containing acids.
Do not at any stage short circuit, ie. join any of
the cell cylinders to each other electrically with your charging
leads, wedding ring, etc. If you do, the cell will " die!
". Your only option, if this occurs, is to connect the cell
to your power source and see if you are still running in stage
3. If the cell does not revert to running in stage 3 mode within
1 minute, your only option is to completely dismantle the cell
and re-polish, re-clean and re-charge. Huh???, you are kidding
us, right??? No, I am serious, that is your only
option! So do not do it, do not short out your cell! You will
have similar, but not as severe problems if you reverse your leads
to the cell.
When the cell is running stage 3, you can tip the charged water out of the cell into a glass container and clean, adjust or maintain your now empty cell. Try to keep all cylinders in the same relation they were in before you dismantled the cell, ie. keep all cylinders the same way round and in the same radial alignment. Mainly relevant when dismantling old cells ( over 6 months old ). This is required as the metal parts develop a working relationship that can be weakened or destroyed by careless re-assembly.
When finished, pour the charged water back and you
are back in business. Of course you can pour this charged water
into other cells, or use it as you see fit, but, remember, do
not leave it out of the cell for periods longer than 1 hour at
a time as the breeding has now stopped and you are slowly losing
Remember what you are dealing with. You are not making
a toaster! You are dealing with the basic life force itself. As
it is everywhere and penetrates all things at different speeds,
you cannot imprison it or capture it. If it seeds your cell, it
is because it has found the " womb " that you have made,
a more comfortable place than where it was before. It has entered
and remained of its own free choice. Similarly, if it decides
to breed for you, again it is it's choice. As you are part of
the process, the least that you can do is to positively interact
with it. There are many accounts of cell dying due to locations
and personalities involved. You have been warned!
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